Friday, April 9, 2002 11:35
Location: The Italian alps, onboard the Geneva-Milan train
Weather: Cool, cloudy and damp

A quick passport check after coming through the tunnel, and I'm back in the Euro zone with Switzerland behind me.

I had a great weekend staying with my Uncle Peter and Aunt Helena in their wonderful apartment in Ferney-Voltaire, just across the French border from Geneva. They live in the Dependances du Chateau, built by Voltaire himself, when he relocated the town of Ferney to provide sufficient room for his castle and estate. The Dependance housed Voltaire's chaplain, and a large wine cellar, still littered with bottles, a pair of ancient casks, and a massive wine press. Upstairs, the old building has been retrofitted with elegant modern apartments, and Peter and Helena live in the southern one, up a wooden spiral staircase.

On Sunday morning we had a wonderful brunch, with fresh croissants from the bakery in town and delicious smoked salmon from the market. Then we headed over the border back into Switzerland, driving around Lac Leman to Aigle, near the eastern end. We hiked up into the mountains for a few hours. The dogs, Bagles and Bashti, strained frequently on their leashes as they came across interesting country smells, and on the way up we crossed the railway tracks of the little train that serves the villages of the mountain. It was hazy, but the mountains around were still visible looming huge through the trees. After a picnic lunch we headed back down, stopping for photos of the vineyards and perfect chateau in the valley, and for tisane and coffee in the teashop of the village.

Sunday night, Helena (who is a fantastic cook) prepared a special treat: duck a l'orange, with potatoes and beans, and a selection of cheeses for dessert, all with a couple of fine bottles from their extensive wine collection.

Monday proceeded in a similar vein, though as Peter and Helena both had work I amused myself for the day. In the evening two of their friends, John and Mary Ruth Fox, came for dinner (coq au vin). Peter knows John from working together at the UN, while Mary Ruth is a doctor. They were both extremely nice people, and we had a wonderful evening. I got an invitation to stop by and visit them in Washington, to be introduced to their daughters, so I guess I made a good impression!

This morning Peter dropped me off at the train station on his way to work, and I was off again. I'm aiming for the villages of Cinque Terre. We're just pulling into Stresa, set on a long lake with two or three wonderful islands, themselves built up with houses. Hey, I'm in Italy!!
posted by Tom at 11:55 AM | link |