Friday, May 10, 2002 10:25
Weather: Cool, scattered cloud.
Location: Onboard a ferry boat, aboout to leave on a cruise of the Bosphorus.

I had a great evening yesterday with Jean and Oliver. After dinner we decided to go to a jazz bar in Beyoglu. We walked there, which took quite a while, past Eminonu, across the bridge, and up through some dark, very steep and fairly narrow streets towards the main pedestrian streen, Istiklal Caddesi. Though it wasn't too late--about 10:30--most of the streets were empty, with only a few hopeful taxi cabs cruising around.

Istiklal Caddesi has a tram line running down the middle, but though I had hopes of seeing the 19th C. tram, I guess it doesn't run in the evenings. As we walked down the street we came across more and more people, and found shops that were still open. This was clearly Istanbul's night life district.

At the far end of Istiklal Caddesi we came to Taksim, a large square surrounded by tall international hotels. Oliver's Lonely Planet had suggested jazz bars in two of the hotels on the square, but it seems both have closed or been converted to other uses. The one in the Hyatt, Henry's, was renamed "Gossip" and is now a 60's styled pickup joint complete with a psychodelic light pattern on one of the walls.

Disappointed, we gave up on the jazz bar idea and settled for a congenial outdoor pub partway back along Istiklal Caddesi. Taken by a sudden craving, Jean headed off and returned with three takeout servings of rice pudding, which we devoured before going back to our beer.

After a hair-raising taxi ride back to Sultanhamet, we said goodnight. I'm hoping to meet them at the Blue Mosque's sound and light show tonight.

Today is my last full day in Istanbul! I'm going to spend most of the day up the Bosphorus, which promises to provide good views of villages and castles along the waterfront. The boat back doesn't leave until 3pm, so I hope there's plenty to see in Anadolu Kavagi! After that, the plan is to hit a hammam for a massage before the sound & light show.

Tomorrow morning, I'll cram in a final museum: the Imperial Palace. Then off to the airport!
posted by Tom at 10:40 AM | link |